Fashion Etiquette | gildedage

Fashion and Etiquette

Etiquette manuals provided upper class women with specific guidance about how to dress and behave when entertaining guests and attending parties. For an unmarried woman, dressing appropriately was a means of projecting her breeding and status, thus displaying her suitability for marriage and motherhood. For a married woman, dressing appropriately was a way to demonstrate her taste and her husband’s status.

The Gilded Ideal

Etiquette manuals helped women learn to conduct themselves at public events, dress according to fashion standards, and perfect the art of conversation. These skills were necessary for a woman to attract a husband and fulfill her wifely duties. In a heavily judgmental society, a woman’s clothing became a means of navigating restrictive social norms.

The Tarnished Reality

Although women were expected to follow the rules of etiquette, many could not. Some pursued professional careers or engaged in activism in addition to or instead of marriage and motherhood. Many of these women challenged restrictive clothing norms and instead wore “bloomer suits” as a way to express their desire for change. Women who resisted the rules of etiquette still faced judgment from society.

Etiquette Book, 1892 Etiquette covered topics such as the home, courtship and marriage, conversation, parties and balls, and dress. These were all lessons ladies needed to learn and perfect in order to be considered “proper.”
Dance Card, November 28, 1876 Dance cards were part of the proper etiquette of balls. Men would sign a woman’s dance card to reserve her as a partner for a particular dance.
Cotton Chemise, 1880 – 1895 A chemise was loose fitting and kept the other garments away from the skin.
Embroidered Stockings, 1880 – 1900 Stockings such as these would only be worn to a special event, as indicated by the embroidery.
Duchess Corset, 1890 – 1900 Corsets were essential for creating the cinched waist that was fashionable during this era.
Collapsible Crinoline, 1883 Cage crinolines created a full skirt without requiring more layers of clothing.
White Petticoat, 1880 A petticoat was worn over the cage crinoline to create a smoother look.
Metal Spring Bag Bustle, 1870 - 1880 5. Like the corset, the bustle was used to help women achieve the “ideal figure”.
Silk Party Dress, 1890 Proper dress was part of the rules of etiquette for women attending dances and parties. This dress with its low neckline and puffed sleeves would have been appropriate for a young upper class women to wear to a party or ball.
Surprise Party Invitation, 1885 As with any public event, an upper class woman would be expected to embody grace and refinement at a surprise party.
Cabinet Card, late 1800s The women in this photograph wear clothing that would have been considered appropriate attire for a dinner party. The light colors, kid gloves, and fan are all items ladies wore for an evening out.

Fashion and Etiquette

Etiquette Book, 1892

Etiquette covered topics such as the home, courtship and marriage, conversation, parties and balls, and dress. These were all lessons ladies needed to learn and perfect in order to be considered “proper.”

Dance Card, November 28, 1876

Dance cards were part of the proper etiquette of balls. Men would sign a woman’s dance card to reserve her as a partner for a particular dance.

Cotton Chemise, 1880 – 1895

A chemise was loose fitting and kept the other garments away from the skin.

Embroidered Stockings, 1880 – 1900

Stockings such as these would only be worn to a special event, as indicated by the embroidery.

Duchess Corset, 1890 – 1900

Corsets were essential for creating the cinched waist that was fashionable during this era.

Collapsible Crinoline, 1883

Cage crinolines created a full skirt without requiring more layers of clothing.

White Petticoat, 1880

A petticoat was worn over the cage crinoline to create a smoother look.

Metal Spring Bag Bustle, 1870 - 1880

5. Like the corset, the bustle was used to help women achieve the “ideal figure”.

Silk Party Dress, 1890

Proper dress was part of the rules of etiquette for women attending dances and parties. This dress with its low neckline and puffed sleeves would have been appropriate for a young upper class women to wear to a party or ball.

Surprise Party Invitation, 1885

As with any public event, an upper class woman would be expected to embody grace and refinement at a surprise party.

Cabinet Card, late 1800s

The women in this photograph wear clothing that would have been considered appropriate attire for a dinner party. The light colors, kid gloves, and fan are all items ladies wore for an evening out.